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Backpacking down South Island's West Coast

All aboard the party bus!

semi-overcast 17 °C
View 2013 Round the World Trip on FrancisRTW's travel map.

Travelling alone with everything on my back and a lot of distance to cover, joining a backpacking tour felt the best way to get the essential NZ South Island experience. Having settled into my hostel in Greymouth I wandered down for a tour of the local Monteith's Brewery whose Amber Ale I had developed a taste for. The tour itself made me sad with the brewing now done in a large plant elsewhere with the micro brewery that remained only used for researching new beers. However at the beer tasting afterwards I met and joined for dinner 4 lovely ladies already on the Magic Bus I was joining who gave me the lowdown on what life on the bus with our driver "Soap" was like; the next 9 days were going to be fun!

YHA Queenstown Lakefront - typical of the hostels I stayed in

YHA Queenstown Lakefront - typical of the hostels I stayed in


Example of a small hostel dormitory (from YHA Taronga on North Island)

Example of a small hostel dormitory (from YHA Taronga on North Island)


Inside Monteith's Brewery in Greymouth

Inside Monteith's Brewery in Greymouth


Our Magic Bus and crew outside the Haast Visitor Centre (I am kneeling at the front, 3rd from the left)

Our Magic Bus and crew outside the Haast Visitor Centre (I am kneeling at the front, 3rd from the left)

After a boisterous welcome aboard the bus the following morning we stopped at the Bushman Centre at Pukekara. Not a lot to see per se in the small museum but they did screen a humourous macho 20 minute video about deer hunting - NZ South Island West Coast style! Basically deer are an introduced species and with no predators bred like rabbits destroying everything. At first they were ruthlessly hunted but then it was realised profit could be made by capturing and farming them. Then the video gets fun because ultimately the way they are caught is by flying low in a helicopter and leaping on them with a net - maniacs!

The Bushman Centre at Pukekura

The Bushman Centre at Pukekura


Deer in the paddock by the Bushman's Centre

Deer in the paddock by the Bushman's Centre

The highlight of the day though was the afternoon heli-hike on the Franz Josef Glacier, we were given coats, boots & crampons and flown on a short but spectacular helicopter flight to the start of the glacier. We were then taken on 2 hour hike across the ice, crossing & climbing crevasses and descending through ice tunnels. It was brilliant and very different from my previous glacial experience during my trip at Jungfraujoch in Switzerland.

The view from the helicopter flying on to the Franz Josef Glacier

The view from the helicopter flying on to the Franz Josef Glacier

Hikers disembarking onto the ice from the helicopter

Hikers disembarking onto the ice from the helicopter


We wait while our guide makes sure the ice screws holding the safety line are still secure

We wait while our guide makes sure the ice screws holding the safety line are still secure


We make our down a crevasse on the Franz Josef Glacier

We make our down a crevasse on the Franz Josef Glacier


Me emerging from an ice tunnel on the Franz Josef Glacier

Me emerging from an ice tunnel on the Franz Josef Glacier


A helicopter taking off from the glacier returning hikers back to the village

A helicopter taking off from the glacier returning hikers back to the village

Early the next morning we reached Lake Matheson and after a short walk across a deliberately wobbly bridge reached the viewpoint where Mount Cook, Mount Tasman (the 2 highest mountains in NZ) and the Fox Glacier are famously reflected in the lake like a mirror. It turns out the connection between the glacier and the top UK selling Fox's Glacier Mints is a myth - one is named after an 1870s NZ prime minister while other is named after their Leicester based inventor in 1918!

I didn't know it at the time but the new data card I inserted into my camera after Franz Josef turned out to be a dud and I lost all the photos I took for the next couple of days. Fortunately I was with friends trying to take very similar photos to myself and they have helped out so these are "borrowed" photos until Milford Sound. Thanks again guys for helping out - you know who you are!

The wobbly bridge on the track down to Lake Matheson, every step and the whole bridge seems  to move to the left or right!

The wobbly bridge on the track down to Lake Matheson, every step and the whole bridge seems to move to the left or right!


The famous mirror reflection of the mountains on Lake Matheson; unfortunately it was not at its best while we there but still impressive none the less

The famous mirror reflection of the mountains on Lake Matheson; unfortunately it was not at its best while we there but still impressive none the less

We then had to cover a lot of miles from the relative flat of the West Coast snaking up through the mountains and dense forest of the Haast Pass to our next overnight stop at Wanaka. On the way up we stopped at the Thunder Creek Falls which Soap our driver said were "magic" and that if we stared at them for 30 seconds and then looked slightly away we'd know why. I'm not entirely sure I saw what was intended but as I stared I did see what looked like a warp in my vision in the trees next to the top of the falls which was pretty eerie!

Thunder Creek Falls (aka the Magic Waterfall)

Thunder Creek Falls (aka the Magic Waterfall)

Once we reached the summit it was relatively flat driving alongside Lakes Wanaka (26 miles - 43 kilometres, 70 square miles in size & 4th largest in NZ) and Hawea (21 miles - 35 kilometres long, 54 square miles in size). Our final stop before overnighting in Wanaka was at Puzzling World, a tourist attraction built around optical illusions and puzzles. It had a maze but it's signature attraction was its leaning tower outside, the idea was you took a photograph from an angle such that it looked like you were holding it up!

Lake Wanaka

Lake Wanaka


The Leaning Tower at Puzzling World just outside Wanaka

The Leaning Tower at Puzzling World just outside Wanaka


Einstein is always watching you! Another optical illusion at Puzzling World

Einstein is always watching you! Another optical illusion at Puzzling World

The next day began with "Soap" our driver playing "Raiders of the Lost Ark" full blast, we were approaching Queenstown, "the adrenalin capital of the world". First stop was at the historic AJ Hacket Bridge over the Kawarau River, the home of the original bungy jump and nearly a quarter of the bus had signed up to have a go! Needless for me to say but with my fear of heights I wasn't one of them... although there was something gnawing away inside of me saying if I could just get enough courage (or madness) to do it for the couple of minutes it takes I'd love to be able to say I'd done it!

The historic AJ Hackett Bungy Bridge over the Kawarau River

The historic AJ Hackett Bungy Bridge over the Kawarau River


Bungy Jumper eye view of the river

Bungy Jumper eye view of the river


We have take-off... only 142 feet (43 metres) to the river below!

We have take-off... only 142 feet (43 metres) to the river below!


Ignoring the bungy jumping for a minute, it is actually quite a pretty gorge!

Ignoring the bungy jumping for a minute, it is actually quite a pretty gorge!

All fired up we had a lunch stop in Arrowtown and went in search of the meat pies from the local bakery. Hand-sized meat pies baked fresh daily from the local bakery in every small town are considered the national dish in New Zealand and although similar, invariably taste a lot better than the steak pies back home in the UK. Arrowtown itself is a quaint small town which has managed to retain more than 60 of its original wooden and stone buildings from its gold rush days of the 1860s.

Arrowtown

Arrowtown


The Arrowtown Bakery

The Arrowtown Bakery

It was then onwards to Queenstown - where most towns have chemists and supermarkets, Queenstown instead has agents for bungy jumping, jetboating and skydiving and a host of bars and clubs! Our Bus was in a party mood having won the "Battle of the Buses" bar games tournament against the rival tour bus companies the night before in Wanaka and we now enjoyed a few nights in the pubs, clubs and restaurants of Queenstown (and off course the meat pies from the world famous Fergbakery in Shotover Street).

Party time in Queenstown with my Magic Bus crew (I'm first on the left)

Party time in Queenstown with my Magic Bus crew (I'm first on the left)


All you can eat Pizza Night with my Magic Bus crew in Queenstown (I'm first on the left)

All you can eat Pizza Night with my Magic Bus crew in Queenstown (I'm first on the left)

Posted by FrancisRTW 02:00 Archived in New Zealand Tagged waterfalls lakes bridges animals snow museums food beer party glaciers tour theme_parks videos hostelling magic_bus helicopters breweries light_aircraft nz_south_island outdoor_pursuits frontier_towns Comments (0)

Milford Sound

Awesome scenary with its own very distinctive weather - and a misbehaving camera :-(

all seasons in one day 10 °C
View 2013 Round the World Trip on FrancisRTW's travel map.

A must see for me was Milford Sound only 40 miles (64 kilometres) away as the crow flies although with mountains and lakes in the way the actual distance by road was 180 miles (290 kilometres) and took over 3 hours. The drive there was spectacular and we stopped at a lake with a particularly pristine mirror refection of the surrounding mountains and forest before making our way through the Homer Tunnel to Milford. When we emerged the other side the weather had totally changed, Milford Sound is the wettest place in New Zealand!

The stunning scenery on the way to Milford Sound

The stunning scenery on the way to Milford Sound


Mirror Lake on the way to Milford Sound

Mirror Lake on the way to Milford Sound


Sign reflected in the Lake on the way to Milford Sound

Sign reflected in the Lake on the way to Milford Sound

Milford Sound is a 10 mile (16 kilometre) long fjord with very steep sides; Mitre Peak is the most famous and towered 5,551 feet (1,692 metres) over the Sound as we arrived to board our tour boat. With forest clinging to the sheer cliffs, waterfalls cascading into the Sound from high up and seals colonising the rocks (apparently there are dolphins in the Sound as well but we didn't see any the day we were there) it is one of the most stunning places in the world and part of a World Heritage Site covering the south west corner of New Zealand.

Mitre Peak in Milford Sound (5,551 feet - 1,692 metres), for an idea of scale note the tour boat at its base!

Mitre Peak in Milford Sound (5,551 feet - 1,692 metres), for an idea of scale note the tour boat at its base!


Me by Fairy Falls in Milford Sound

Me by Fairy Falls in Milford Sound


Close up of the Fairy Falls in Milford Sound

Close up of the Fairy Falls in Milford Sound


St Annes Point at the mouth of Milford Sound, next stop Australia!

St Annes Point at the mouth of Milford Sound, next stop Australia!


Seals on Seal Rock in Milford Sound

Seals on Seal Rock in Milford Sound


Bowen Falls on the left as we return up Milford Sound

Bowen Falls on the left as we return up Milford Sound

Unfortunately it was when I arrived at Milford Sound that my camera began to indicate it had a problem. Two and a half months and five countries into my round the world trip even with most of them backed up (in triplicate - I am an IT Project Manager after all, always got to have a contingency plan!) you can imagine how I felt!

Fortunately it turned out to be the new SD Card I put in my camera after the Franz Josef Glacier Heli-Hike that was the problem so I was able to use my camera's internal memory (and borrowed photographs) until I got a replacement the following day in Queenstown. Two photo stores in NZ and LA have tried to recover the lost pictures for me since with no success so I'm pretty sure they are not recoverable.

I try to put on a brave face after realising there is a problem with my camera

I try to put on a brave face after realising there is a problem with my camera


Me enjoying the scenary at Milford Sound

Me enjoying the scenary at Milford Sound

Posted by FrancisRTW 03:00 Archived in New Zealand Tagged waterfalls mountains boat tunnels fjords tour marine_life hostelling magic_bus nz_south_island Comments (0)

Jetboating on the Dart River

I get stranded on a river sandbank in Paradise!

overcast 14 °C
View 2013 Round the World Trip on FrancisRTW's travel map.

A lot of the wilder locations used for The Lord of the Rings were near Glenorchy on the north shore of Lake Wakatipu, about a 45 minute drive from Queenstown and the thought of combining a trip to see them with a jetboat ride up the Dart River certainly appealed so I booked myself on the tour for one of the days I was in Queenstown. On the way we stopped for a terrific view of the mountains and islands at the north end of Lake Watatipu before arriving at Glenorchy where they kitted us out in heavy duty waterproofs for our powerboat trip on the Dart River.

The southern end of Lake Watatipu looking towards Glenorchy

The southern end of Lake Watatipu looking towards Glenorchy


Me at Glenorchy about to set off for Paradise

Me at Glenorchy about to set off for Paradise

We then began our trip north to Paradise in a vehicle specially adapted for crossing rivers. Our first stop was at the Paradise Homestead below Mount Alfred; the story goes it took a chap a couple of years to build it as a home in the paradise he had found for his new bride but when he sent a message for her to join him she declined and instead settled down with his father! From the homstead we continued north and stopped at a film location heavily used for The Lord of the Rings (e.g. "Isengard" ,"the Misty Mountains" and the edge of the "Lothlorien Forest") and lot of other films besides - such as The Chronicles of Narnia and X-Men: Wolverine.

Paradise Farmstead

Paradise Farmstead


The view south from Paradise near Glenorchy

The view south from Paradise near Glenorchy


Another view looking south from Paradise near Glenorchy

Another view looking south from Paradise near Glenorchy

We were then taking for a "bush walk" through the forest, told amongst other things that the evergreen Beech Tree that was everywhere had very shallow roots and no relation to the tree of the same name back in the UK (it had been mis-named!). Again the forest we were in had been heavily used for Lord of the Rings and we passed a large wooden chair known as "Gandalf's Chair" that had been used in the films.

Bush walk through the forest south of Paradise used for a lot of film scenes in The Lord of the Rings

Bush walk through the forest south of Paradise used for a lot of film scenes in The Lord of the Rings


Gandalf's Chair

Gandalf's Chair

Then began the exciting part of the trip as our jetboat arrived and powered us up the incredibly beautiful Dart River. With recent rain we got a lot further up the river than trips during the previous days but then our boat broke down and we were stranded for half an hour on a sand bank in the middle of the river while a relief boat was sent out to rescue us! Stranded in Paradise like we were has a certain ring to it and I can certainly think of a lot worse places to be stuck.

Our Jet Boat arrives to pick us up

Our Jet Boat arrives to pick us up

Guess who's jet boat broke down and they had to send a relief boat?

Guess who's jet boat broke down and they had to send a relief boat?


Our relief boat arrives

Our relief boat arrives

Our relief boat then arrived and we resumed our trip down the Dart River travelling at incredible speed around the ever changing bends in the river. Although I don't think the relief boat was quite as powerful as the boat we were originally on it was still quite a thrilling trip and as I sat behind our driver/pilot watching him read and negotiate the river reminded of my own whitewater kayaking.

I managed to get the seat directly behind the driver/pilot as we sped down the Dart River from Paradise to Glenorchy

I managed to get the seat directly behind the driver/pilot as we sped down the Dart River from Paradise to Glenorchy


Me on a jet boat racing down the Dart River from somewhere north of Paradise to Glenorchy

Me on a jet boat racing down the Dart River from somewhere north of Paradise to Glenorchy


The spray behind our jet boat as we speed down the Dart River to Glenorchy on Lake Watatipu

The spray behind our jet boat as we speed down the Dart River to Glenorchy on Lake Watatipu

About 23 mile (37 kilometres) later we arrived on Lake Wakatipu and circled round the top of the lake to our berth at Glenorchy. We landed close to the Wharf Shed that once used by steamers on the lake to supply Glenorchy. As the steamers were owned by the NZ Railway Company and there was a short bit of track along the wharf, the shed was actually classified as a railway station with the shortest piece of track in New Zealand!

Our relief jet boat arrives back at Glenorchy (l'm sat behind the driver in my warm hat and sun glasses)

Our relief jet boat arrives back at Glenorchy (l'm sat behind the driver in my warm hat and sun glasses)


The historic Glenorchy Wharf Shed

The historic Glenorchy Wharf Shed

Posted by FrancisRTW 02:00 Archived in New Zealand Tagged mountains lakes trees trains boat harbours tour videos 4wd lord_of_the_rings solo hostelling nz_south_island outdoor_pursuits film_locations Comments (0)

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